Somewhere in my subconscious, I know its dawn. Force my eyes open, I roll out of bed for a peek…What? It’s pumping, again?! So much for sleeping in…Part of me hoped it would be flat after the week or more of non-stop swell… I wonder if my arms can take another day of this? Of course they can… “It’s now or never.” I tell myself. Easier to catch waves before the others come out. And surely they’ll be out…the end bowl is throwing round and makeable again, and if I can just pick off one or two sets I swear I’ll relax after that…sunscreen and a gulp of water… I’m out there.
…That might have been the best session of my life! I know I said that yesterday and the day before, but…that last wave, really? Did that just happen?
Back aboard Swell…yum, this mango tastes divine!…mmmm, walnuts too…whooooa…look at this set coming in…I should just go back out and get a few more while the sun isn’t directly overhead, right…? It’s not like I can get anything else done while this wave is taunting me…i’m fixated like a mutt on a bone. But these are the days! When I wake up in my favorite reality there’s no choice but to live it like there’s no tomorrow! The dishes and laundry are piling high and the water tanks are almost empty. There’s green scum clinging to the waterline. My neck and shoulders feel like industrial strength rubber bands, but time will be here tomorrow…this swell might not be! Back into my new Patagonia R1 Jane spring suit!! Yeeeeeeeoww!