Swell Book Release & Tour!
It’s here!! I received my first copy of my book! It feels pretty wild to hold the culmination of a lifetime of dream-chasing and three plus years of writing in my hands. I’m proud of the manuscript, but the way it came together artistically just blows me away! I can’t give enough praises to my […]
Steer With Your Heart: Film Release!
Today, I’m super excited to share a short film that came about through the love and encouragement of dear friends. My surf buddy and filmmaker friend, Teva Perrone, was the stimulus behind it. He spent hours editing and fixing my amateur footage, and pushing me to keep working on it despite my juggling the book […]
Giddyup! ‘Back to Nature’ adventure revisited…
Lost in the stars, I lay huddled on the port side of the cockpit in my sleeping bag. The eastern horizon hinted the coming twilight, but my gaze was fixed skyward. Swell’s soft rhythmic lurch through the small upwind chop, told me I could relax. I didn’t want to jinx myself, but intuitively I anticipated […]
A Pain in the Neck!
As some of you know, I recently suffered a cervical spine fracture of my C3 vertebrae. In other words, I broke my neck! Don’t worry, I’m ok! I was extremely lucky that my fracture did not effect the spinal column, so there was no nerve damage and I will recover fully and relatively quickly… So […]
Plastic-Coated Paradise??
…Yet another plastic-ridden beach thousands of miles from any significant metropolis… Mckenzie and I hiked over the hill from where Swell was anchored hoping to find some wind-swell peaks to surf one morning. Instead, we discovered this spectacular 1/2 mile-long beach coated in plastic trash (and Portugese man-o-wars!) from end to end. This beach faces […]
Nocturnal for a Night: Shine-eyes and rock pillows
No one put more wood on the fire, which I interpreted as a sign that we’d be going soon…Not home, not yet. Tonight I’d be following my local friends out to the reef to look for lobsters. Makae made no grand announcement. Just stood and gathered his gloves, then donned his homemade jerry jug backpack. […]
Whale Tale
Tucked into an inside atoll corner one morning, I felt like watching the open sea crash onto the reef so I took the dinghy in and anchored it on the lagoon side of the reef, then wandered the 500 yards across the island to where the reef dropped off into the open Pacific… The atolls […]
