K.O. In Round Two
Round two started off all wrong. I mistimed the paddle out, taking 3 or four in the impact zone and found myself way down at the ‘first crack’. I caught a fat, walled right and then paddled against the current down to the reef. Only just arriving to the peak, my arms already burned. I […]
Just Can’t Get Enough
Anna and I managed to make it out between sets that morning. Once outside, we sat wide where we’d be safe enough from the looming destructo sets, but still able to claw our way into the waves that peaked too far right for the guys sitting deeper on the reef. I stroked into one right […]
Generous Friends in the Right Places
“We’ve got two 6’10″s you guys can ride?” With just over a week to departure and still too many unchecked list items, I started looking at my options. Then call from my dad sealed the deal. “I have to fly east on business, if you stay a little longer I will get to see you […]
