Surf it for me, Katie!!

Flew over a cyclone to see this upon arrival in the Mount…

I limped off the plane and found myself in a new land, New ZEALand!! I limped onto the ‘people mover’ and the escalator, contemplating the bewildering speed of air travel. The Auckland airport was cool and neat, and the Queen’s English leapt boldly off the lips of airport officials, tickling my ears…

When I saw Katie’s bright smile I forgot all about my sore knee and the irksome fact that after all the time spent studying charts, that it had only taken me 5 hours to fly there. Plus, we’d flown directly over a category 2 cyclone!? We chatted like wild monkeys the entire 2-hour drive down the windy, two-lane highways. I nearly forgot about my bum knee until we arrived in her town, driving straight to the beach to check the surf…I limped to the top of the grassy dune to see swells lines stacked to the horizon—solid, offshore, short-period cyclone swell–absolutely magnificent. My mind drifted to the hardship in Christchurch, and I didn’t bother feeling sorry about my knee. I was resigned to the fact that I couldn’t surf, but from the look in Katie’s eyes—a mix between a wild horse and a rabid dog—she needed to get in the water.

Meep meep! First things first, try the ice cream and catch up with Katie on the ride from the airport…

Half and hour later Katie, her husband, Geoff, and I stood watching the sets from the parking lot at the main beach. For no good reason I had slipped my board in the car. I couldn’t help it.

“We don’t really have time to go anywhere else, so we’re gonna go out here.” Katie explained, possibly in response to my look of concern about the crowd. “It not as bad as it looks, probably only about 5 of them can actually surf…it’s just really easy to get out along the headland, so everybody goes out here.”

Everybody? I thought to myself…even me? My arms weren’t injured, I smelled like airplane, and I really, really wanted to sit in the line up with Katie. A minute later I’d convinced myself and gingerly lifted my right leg into my wetsuit. The current sucked us out along the rocks, and deposited us into the line-up. I sat up carefully as not to tweak my knee as any twisting action meant instant shooting pain. I looked around found myself smack in the middle of the crowd, with no intention of catching a wave. When the sets rolled in the whole bunch worked into a frenzy, paddling to and fro and in and out. The wave was tricky–it either hit the outside bar and peeled off nicely down the line, or if it was too small, it only crested then fizzled for another 50 yards until it hit the inside sandbars. Katie had the right strategy—patience at the outside. I sat beside her, a smiling buoy, simply enjoying to see her face out in the sea and marveling at the odd sensation of watching the waves with no objective of riding them…

A set popped up ahead of us. The wave gods intended on truly testing me, as they sent a perfect right hand peak jacking my way…Oh the lovely angle of its face rising so temptingly, I would have hardly needed to paddle! Of all the frothing hoard of surfers, the best wave of the afternoon was headed directly for me… But in fact, any urge to turn and take it disappeared, when I realized that my dearest compadre sat poised and ready to my left, next in line for this right-hand beauty. She looked at me inquisitively, as if she wondered if I could really pass it up…

I made no movement to reassure her that it was all hers… “GOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!” I cheered and watched her gracefully turn and launch herself down its face. The wave peel off flawlessly, spray flying out the back as Katie lay turns across its face. She popped out 100 yards down the beach and I flailed my arms in wild cheers…

A happy man on a mini-mal paddled up and asked, “Did yew see that beyewtiful gurl ryding that incredibul whaaaaave?!?!?”

“That’s my best friend!!” I replied excitedly.

“Ahhh, I reckon I’d like to have her as my best friend too!? I grinned. He was right. I’m lucky.

Katie so kindly surfed a few more rights for me, until the sun sunk and we felt a chill. I rode one in on my belly and we cruised on home. Geoff barbequed fresh veggies from Katie’s garden, and later I soaked my knee in their outdoor bathtub under the stars. For a girl with a limp, I was feeling quite alright.

Nothin like good food and good friends to shake off jet lag.