Don’t Kill the Star!
Post-surf stoke with a little coconut rehydration.
And the next day at ten o’clock sharp, Jimmy circled Swell on his stand-up paddle board.
“Come aboard,” I called. “I’m nearly ready!”
He descended into Swell’s cabin, eyes wide, taking in all the quotes and photos and details. I showed him my book collection, hoping I could give him one of my favorites, but alas, he’d read them all. And so we headed off to check the pass.
“It’s not the easiest wave,” I explained on the way. “It’s kinda shifty and there were long waits between sets yesterday, so it’s easy to drift away from the take-off zone.” He seemed slightly anxious, but unquestionably determined.
We paddled over and right away a big set leapt up in front of us. He paddled for the first but pulled out and caught the next two waves on the head. I cringed as the board pulled and snapped back just in time for another wall of water to crash in front of him.
“Oh no…” I thought, “I’m going to kill him!”
But he came back out laughing, took a few deep breaths, and paddled outside a bit.
“Try to look for the waves that come in more from the north,” I suggested. “They seem to stay open a bit more.”
And just then a lovely head-high wave sprang up from the north. He was perfectly in position. He turned and leaned into his strokes like he really wanted it. Then away he went, disappearing behind the wall of neon blue! He came back out glowing. We high-fived and cheered in celebration of his first wave in French Polynesia.
I, on the other hand, didn’t take my own advice and paddled for a lumpy west one, tried to pull in at the end section, and came up sputtering between fingers of dry reef, but miraculously unscathed.
“Better me than him,” I thought.
He caught three more beautiful waves. The third was a gorgeous set–well overhead. He rode it well into the inside and I began to worry…then just before it closed out on the reef, he and the yellow board came flying over the back of the wave. I was so thrilled for him that I didn’t even care whether I caught another wave or not. This spot was NOT easy, and he was charging and pulling it off! Afterward we celebrated with coconuts and pamplemousse.
That night I sat at the table in ‘Bloody Mary’s’ with Richard and Jess and the rest of the gang for the Saturday show. Jimmy came onstage rosy-cheeked and full of stoke. The show was magic. He played with heart and with an unmistakable twinkle in his eye. None of what had happened seemed real yet…all I knew was that it sure felt good to have a hero meet and then exceed your idea and hopes for who they are.
Eternal thanks, Jimmy!!
8 Comments
Claire
February 1, 2010ha ha ha… you are awesome Liz. I can’t wait until we untie our lines and head south too. I am always showing your posts to my girls so they can be inspired by one independently cool chica!
Don Howarth
February 2, 2010Hi Liz,
The last set of entries is totally amazing! Besides being a surfer and sailor, I’ve been a Parrothead for the last 25 years or so. What a wonderful experience to be in Bora Bora and hang out and surf with Jimmy. You are truely blessed. God speed to you in your travels.
Don
kevin whitegon
February 2, 2010Liz
What can follow that?Surfing,singing,hangin with jimmy.
Music like first love stays forever.So does catching youre first waves in paradise.Way to go you stoked the star .
kevin
Bill O'Halloran
February 3, 2010“One particular Harbor” What a fantasy come true. Jimmy and I are the same age and except for a total lack of musical talent, I sometimes think we live slightly parallel lives.
But that’s a long story of surfing skiing sailing climbing and other various adventures.
Best to you and fair winds and following seas,
Bill
dave smith
February 4, 2010Hi
I got to hand it to you Liz your funny. Did JB give you a hand with the coconut? If not, you are a handy person and able handle it. Your awesome, give yourself a BIG HAND ;-)
Hideyo
February 6, 2010Hey Liz. After encountering you in Bora, Meagan and left for the Tuamotus where we lived on a small atoll. The Nor Pac was prolific and extremely rewarding; a great way to welcome the new year. I was talking to one of the four people that live on the atoll and they whispered about a woman who sailed solo into the lagoon. Couldn’t help but wonder if that was you. Hope you are staying sheltered from Oli.
-H
Rick
February 11, 2010What a great time! Great to hear that JB is even cooler than imagined!
Ky Delaney
May 5, 2010What a cool encounter! I grew up sailing on the Chesapeake Bay. My dad would prop me up on the dining room table and we would dance to Jimmy Buffet – so amazing that you got to surf and hang out with him! I love your blog and am inspired by it as I set off on my own adventures.